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“So, What Did You Do in Papua?” by Hendry Hendry

             Many have asked me that same question. I began to think what my intention was at first. The intention was to go to the village and to observe their condition and seek for potential non-timber forest. Then, I would make a report for an NGO to be used for fundraising – collecting funds from investors who would want to help preserve the forest. It was pretty challenging; and what was more challenging was adapting to their lives for three weeks.


               Marlon taught me how to walk on steep muddy area in the middle of the jungle. “Look straight!!!” he said repeatedly. Benhur taught me how to set up a trap for moles or boars, and in return I would play soccer and take a shower on his brook. Mr. Alfred taught me a unique way on how to cut the trunk of the tree into firewood logs. Mrs. Woloin showed me on how to make sago congee. These are some people whom I got to know. Sometimes, when there was not much activities going on, I would lay down under a cassowary tree. For a second, I would think that it was so nice to learn how to live a life. I would think that there was no problem with their lives, but there is always a problem when someone tried to change the way of indigenous people lives.

Figure 1 Benhur loves to play soccer

           There were many really surprising things other than seeing how crazy it is to not have a supportive local government. When me and my partner did our regular walk to the shop or to visit another village, we would spend a long time to chat around with the locals. One time, there was an old woman with machete who stopped us and began telling us a long story of her family condition. It was really nice for me that people actually chat for telling their own story. All she wanted was for us to listen to her son’s condition fighting for the city life. That would make them happy and that’s not so expensive either. Another time, we would discuss on how long is the wait to get our road fixed or to get electricity.
Figure 2 Mrs. Yohana loves to take care of her small plot of land

            I was also surprised that many women would do anything to go to the market selling their bananas, betel, sago, or any kind of produces that they grow on their small-scale farm, even though sometimes their losing money. A women would sit on a packed taxi cab to sell her $5 worth of Banana to be sold in the market, but the cost of a packed taxi cab was $6 round-trip. She would do it because she wanted to listen hot gossips in the market.

When we were collecting data or patrolling for non-timber resources, Yustin would tell me the regular as well as Latin name of plants and also the function or danger of almost everything we saw in the jungle. In addition, Mr. Kaliele showed me how they used a certain leaves or roots to survive from malaria, bad stomach and some other diseases. They told me that there used to be a school where they would teach young man on how to survive in the jungle in a year and they would come back to the village as an honored man and could act as a shaman, who was technically a doctor that can cure diseases and kill evil spirit.

               Now, you probably wondering so what did you actually do? I realized that my project was more like an anthropologist project. I actually found that there are rattan, bamboo, sago, and resin sap – those can be cultivated. Why are they not cultivating it then? “My back hurts when I brought the resin back to our village” or “We’ve worked our ass off, but we only get so little money”, that’s what I usually heard. They cannot rely on their own government. They need to be taught on how to do business with outsiders. They can’t be just relying on government aid that is making them dependable and inflexible.

               So when I came back to the town, I told the founder of the NGO, “I felt like there’s nothing to be done there with the current condition unless… Unless we can come up with a technology that would help them cultivate the resin, and build a better infrastructure like road and electricity. Also, we need to teach them how to do business.” The founder of Bentara Papua replied, “ I know. I want you to see with it by yourself so that you know what’s the real problem. Sometimes it can be the system, but most of the time it can be the people.” But this time are both. Villagers who live in Saifi district are experiencing what I call a transition era from a non-modern society to a modern society.

I felt like these people were already pretty advanced society back then. They have a way to communicate. They have their own school – even it’s only for men. They know which plants to use to cure diseases. They have abundance source of foods. They were good at hunting. But the problem was that they were sort of forced to live as “modern society.”

        I wouldn’t say that my project was successful in term of improving their life. However, I did manage to see non-timber forest that they have. There’s a lot we can do there if the goal is to generate a huge stream of revenue, but it would also come at some cost. Right now the people are living at peace, if there’s an opportunity to get rich, these people would not mind sleeping under a hut everyday or maybe take over other’s land – something that needs to be precluded.

Figure 3 Left to right, Benhur, Marlon, Wentewe, Terianus


Reference:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_UMAEXElHZk 

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