See How Saifi Introduced Itself to Me by Hendry Hendry

“It was an unforgettable first-day impression”.

I went to Saifi District, West Papua, Indonesia, for summer 2016. Saifi, a district in South Sorong regency, West Papua, Indonesia, is consisted of sixteen villages. Besides having a growing population, many families are trying to get together to form a new village because they would get government aid if they form a new village.

Although I grew up in Indonesia, an archipelago country, which is consisted by five main big islands and approximately around 13,000 small islands, it still remains mysterious to me. I joined one of the activities at a local Non-profit Governmental Organization (NGO) in West Papua, Bentara Papua, doing a “community check-up” in Saifi District – I was assigned to two villages: Mlaswat and Sira. To simplify, my job was to observe and analyze the potential of economic growth for non-timber products in these villages.

After thirty hours sitting on a plane, doing multiple transits, and six hours sitting on a ruthless taxi, I finally arrived at the entrance of the first village. Also, right before I got into the village, I got into an argument with the taxi driver because he did not drop me at the destination but approximately two miles from the first village. I paid him less eventually and had to walk through muddy hills. “The road was not like this six months ago… it was nice, ” said my partner, Yustin. I wondered the condition of the communities now compare to six months ago.

Fig. 1 Muddy road to Mlaswat's entrance

While we were walking our way to Mlaswat village, we saw some Merbau or Kwila timber laying down on the side of the road and heard chainsaw noise from a pretty close distance. “They’re still chopping down their trees huh,” I said to Yustin. Yustin began to explain me the culture of the communities who live in Saifi District. Interestingly, he told me that there was only one family who has resisted chopping down any Merbau or Iron tree for money.  It’s the Woloin Family who live in Mlaswat village, and I was going there to stay for couple days.

Fig. 1 Muddy road to Mlaswat's entrance

Fig. 2 Iron tree cut into salable blocks

When we arrived at Woloin family, they served us an early dinner. They tried to minimize the activities during nighttime because there was no electricity. After dinner, Agustinus Woloin asked us to come along to a meeting for a wedding ceremony where they would discuss how much bride’s price were collected so far. I felt better after I filled up my stomach with Sago Conge, or Papeda, and said yes to his invitation. So, I turned on my light from my iPhone and followed Agustinus Woloin to the other house.

Fig. 4 Me, Yulius Woloin, Agustinus Woloin during early dinner. Agustinus Woloin was showing me how to roll Papeda

Fig. 5 A man walking over Kain Timur            

I was told by Yustin that the only tradition that was being strongly held was bride-price as I unwittingly entered the house full of chatter. I could see money become the reason why that phenomenon happened. In addition to rough economy condition, as a result, women are viewed as a valuable asset. The groom’s family would gather some ancient Kain Timur (woven fabric made in East Indonesia), that will be counted for its value, for bride’s family and plus an additional cash. The quote that they gave me was this:

“A woman with high school diploma usually receives about $10,000 - $15,000. A woman with master or Phd usually receives about $25,000 - $35,000.”

               So would you marry a woman with high education level?

               I couldn’t event think of marriage at that point. They made me chug five glass of enau, an alcoholic drink made by fermented root. Agustinus Woloin gave me a sign to leave. He was trying to save me from another drink. I didn’t dare to refuse it. So I went back to his house and pass out. I thought it was a very nice introduction.

Reference:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_UMAEXElHZk